The weather is nice, not warm, but that delicate spot between uncomfortable extremes where wine grapes like to live. I’m meeting Charles Hendricks (CH), the winemaker and co-owner of hope & grace wines for the past twelve years at a renowned local restaurant, steps from the Yountville tasting room, a perk of the tasting room location.

I always identified with Maverick from Topgun. There is a natural knowledge of how to do things… I joke that I come stupid to each vintage without pre-conceived ideas of what’s going to happen.

Charles Hendricks arrives promptly, dressed in a clean black t-shirt and tan cargo pants. He elicits a comparison to Dr. Drew from TV, crisp, and casual. His attire is functional while still expressing a clean aesthetic. He informs me he’s primarily working in the cellar today and won’t be in the vineyards.

He approaches the lunch confidently, he’s familiar with the menu, the dishes, and most importantly the wine; his Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir graces the list at this restaurant.

RM: When you eat somewhere where your wine is on the wine list do you order it?

CH: Not usually, I like to try something else, see what other people are doing.

So he selects a Russian river Pinot Noir as a comparison. After the initial pleasantries are completed and orders made I continue.

RM: Not taking into account any wine you personally have made, what is the best wine you’ve ever had?

Charles stops only for a second and responds with surety.

CH: ‘78 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Grands Echezeaux I think it was in 1992.

RM: Where were you?

CH: I was in San Francisco at the restaurant of a friend and I was bemoaning the fact that I couldn’t find any good pinot noir and I was going to write off the whole category, and the chef goes ‘no you’ve got to try this.’ She pulls something off the shelf in their wine cellar and it’s this bacon fruit bomb that overtook my whole system from mouth to belly, everything was echoing those flavors; it was ethereal and I still remember that… and I said ‘ok I’ve got it now’ and it laid out where I want to be.

RM: And nothing has stood up to that since then?

CH: Nope (no hesitation).

RM: You talk passionately and eloquently of wine, is that what you want to be since boyhood?

CH: Growing up all I knew was veterinary medicine… my dad was a veterinarian and when an animal was injured in the middle of the night he’d wake me up and we’d go down to the veterinary hospital and I’d be doing treatments with him or helping with a surgery… I liked it, I liked to make them better and work in the animal hospital. It was very fulfilling.

RM: And how did you go from that to the wine world?

CH: Coming from Anaheim, CA there wasn’t a wine culture at that time. And UC Davis was the only school with a veterinary medicine program so I applied there and got in. In college everyone took ‘Introduction to Winemaking’ because you got to drink the wine… but after I took the class it struck me.

RM: What was your favorite part of the class… besides drinking wine?

Charles chuckles, he has a calm and friendly air about him. The staff have recognized him and we are graced with a salad compliments of the chef: Artichokes two ways, shaved and fried with an anchovy vinaigrette. He is gracious in his acceptance and he digs into the salad as we continue.

CH: The agriculture really appealed to me. I took a year and two thirds under my physiology major and I changed my major to viticulture… and then I was kinda one of the first that wrote my own major that included the viticulture and the winemaking courses. The programs had not yet been integrated because of politics. Back in the ‘70’s the grapegrowers and the winemakers were always fighting each other. The grapegrowers were trying to put the peddle to the metal and make the highest yields possible, to hell with the quality, and the winemakers were reading about Bordeux and low grape yields… so they didn’t understand each other.

RM: You were interested in the viticulture… what do you think drove the division?

CH: Back then the grapegrowers were paid on sugar points and the higher the sugar content the more they got paid, as opposed to now. It showed that there weren’t the common goals of today. Today when you contract with a grapegrower you contract for tonnage and you develop a relationship, some of my wines I’ve been sourcing from the same growers and the same vineyards since almost the beginning. The grower knows what you want and knows he has to provide clean fruit of high grade.

RM: You were at UC Davis which is now world-renowned for their Food and Wine Institute, but you were there before that… how did you learn what you know now?

CH: Yeah I was there in the dark ages… (Charles chuckles). In the California wine world back then it was an active time of experimenting trying to figure out what we had… it took us 5-6 years before we found out the Text Books had lied to us. Everything was technically correct but we discovered that it doesn’t work that way in real life.

RM: Where did you learn your secrets then?

CH: Trial and error… probably 10 years experimenting with different problems in wine. Working at different wineries that each had unique issues, barrel issues, cellar issues, etc. I got really good at working with difficult wines.

RM: You’ve worked in a lot of places with a lot of different people in the industry, how would other winemakers describe you?

CM: That’s a good question… probably a cowboy, (Charles smiles feeling comfortable with this idea)I don’t keep the best notes. I always identified with Maverick from Topgun. There is a natural knowledge of how to do things… I joke that I come stupid to each vintage without pre-conceived ideas of what’s going to happen. I’ve watched larger companies try to computer model when the grapes will be ready. I never made wine from a laboratory model… you just have to be out there in the grapes doing it. I don’t follow a textbook or a computer model and that’s where the cowboy comes in…

… to be continued.

Quick Tip: Two things to remember when buying and serving a large format bottle. First, part of the purpose of a large format is the drama, so pour straight from the bottle without decanting. Second, aim for a bottle in the double magnum size and never above a Joroboam, anything larger and you will be unable to suavely pour. 

In wine bottles we mean. Did you know that the large sized wine bottles are primarily named after kings, royalty, and other notable figures of the Middle East? Those history buffs out there know who Methuselah (said to have lived 900+ years), Nebuchadnezzar, Rehoboam, and Balthazar are (For a brief history lesson), but for those of us in the wine world they hold more meaning as sizes of large-format wine bottles. To confuse things more, there are different standards if you’re referring to still or sparkling wine. So, for the purpose of this short post, we will be talking about still wines (hope & grace style!). For the airplane industry and the avid pic-nicker there are the small bottles. Most popular on your next flight or in your hotel room bar are the Piccolo or Chopine sizes that are 1/8 and ¼ respectively. You can pick up a bottle of the hope & grace Santa Lucia Highlands in a Demi, ½ bottle size at our tasting room and pair it with a couple Govino logo glasses for your next out-door adventure. Most people are familiar with the full bottle that is universally known as 750ml (Not a full liter). Then we start talking about the big-boys. Luca De Ferrari of Poderi Boscarelli noted “Producers and drinkers are always attracted by the larger formats of wine bottle, such as the magnum, for an added element of ceremony” and it has been observed that the large format bottles slow the aging process allowing the wine to age with elegance in comparison to smaller bottles. At hope & grace we keep a select number of magnums (double bottles) in the tasting room for discerning guests. Then we start getting into the names of old kings and leaders. A Jerobaom is equivalent to 6 bottles and an Imperial/Methuselah is equivalent to 8. Primarily bottles above that size are sparkling, although it has become more popular (and somewhat of a status symbol) for wineries to produce very limited large size bottles for events or publicity. Have you seen the one at Beringer? It’s called “Maximus” and holds 173 bottles of wine and in 2004, the Guiness Book of World Records dubbed it the world’s largest bottle.

Liters                         Name                                      Bottle Equivalent

0.375L                        Demi-bottle                           ½

0.75L                          Bottle (duh!)                          1

1.5L                             Magnum                                 2

2.25L                          Marie Jeanne                         3

3.0L                             Jeroboam                               4

4.5L                             Rehoboam                             6

6.0L                            Imperial/Methuselah          8

9.0L                            Mordechai/Salmanazar     12 (A Case)

12.0L                          Balthazar                                16

16.0L                          Nebuchadnezzar                  20

18.0L                          Melchior                                24

Many people don’t know what “coopering” is. Coopering is the age old process of producing a cask for the transport of dry or wet goods (each needing a different level of sophistication). Around 225 BC the first wood containers were developed for the transportation of liquids. You might also hear people talk about “toasting” which many equate to a morning ritual with coffee and eggs, but in the wine world refers to lighting a fire and putting an unfinished barrel over it, thus “toasting” the interior. Another vocabulary word for the day is “stave” which is what the individual curved pieces of wood that make up a wine barrel. For what may appear to be a very simple wine barrel there is a long and often times secretive process that each cooperage uses. From the origin of the oak down to the specific forest in a specific country, to the amount of aging pre-toasting of the barrel “staves.” Check out Seguin Moreau Napa Cooperage that has a detailed description of the long and complex process that goes into each barrel.

Inspired by the end of a “winter”(I use this term loosely as not to offend anyone) season and the beginning of a new growing season, I dished out a can of Urbani Truffle products to each of the hope & grace team members. The assignment? Concoct the perfect, decadent and soul-warming pasta recipe… Let’s say goodbye to “winter” and welcome spring! Use either season as an inspiration…

Here are two of my colleagues unbelievable truffle/pasta recipes…. Special Thanks to VICKIE AND CINDY!!!!!

Vickie’s White Truffle, Porcini and Lamb Risotto

Braised Lamb
1 ½ lb  lamb shanks, not trimmed
½ cup dry red wine (or more)
2 heaping T Dijon mustard
2 t sea salt
1 t freshly ground black pepper
½ head of garlic
½ yellow onion
olive oil to brown onions, garlic and lamb
Chop garlic and onions, add to olive oil in frying pan, brown.
Remove lamb shanks from pan and deglaze pan with red wine, adding mustard as well.
Place lamb, and sauce from frying pan in slow cooker.  Cook approx. 3 hours high, 3 hours on low.  May take less time.

Risotto
6 tablespoons butter, divided
16 oz Arborio Rice
4 cup hot vegetable broth
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
6.1 oz can Urbani White Truffles and Porcini sauce

Melt 3 T butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add rice, stir 1 minute. 
Add 1 cup hot broth.  Simmer until broth is almost absorbed, stirring often.  Repeat, using remaining broth, 1 cup at a time.  Stir and simmer until mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes longer.  Stir in remaining 3 T butter, parmesan cheese, and Urbani White Truffles and Porcini sauce.
Add braised lamb to risotto, garnish with parsley and serve with 2008 hope & grace Russian River Pinot Noir.
PS.  I would add asparagus next time!

Cindy’s Truffled Pasta

1 can Urbani Tomatoes Truffle Thrills
4 Tbsp. Tomato paste
3 Tbsp. finely sliced shallots
3/4 cup sliced shitake mushrooms
1/4 cup sliced baby portobello mushrooms
1/4 cup dry red wine
1 tsp fresh chopped oregano
1/2 tsp fresh chopped rosemary
3 Tbsp Olive oil Plus  additional to finish
1/2 cup water or stock

Heat olive oil until shimmering, add shallots and sauté until barely tender, add shitake and portobello mushrooms, sauté until they release their liquid. Sauté until pan is almost dry, kick up the heat and deglaze the pan with the wine. Sauté 4 minutes, add the oregano and rosemary, let cook 3 or 4 minutes. Add Urbani tomato Thrill, and tomato paste. Stir together, add 1/4 water or stock if very thick, bring to a simmer. Simmer 12 minutes, watching thickness and adding water or stock for desired thickness.
Serve over warm parmesan polenta or cooked pasta of your choice! Enjoy with hope & grace 2009 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir.

That was the case for me last week, the Yountville Kiwanis Annual Crab Feed Fundraiser  packed up the town community center with a whopping 350 people for this annual fundraiser. As a prominent winery here in Yountville and a supporter of our community, we of course found a way to make this a company outing by getting a table and gorging on salad, pasta, Dungeness crab and fabulous wine. We enjoyed several bottles of hope & grace 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Chardonnay, 2010 Dry Riesling and our 2008 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir…and we all had an absolute blast. I would tell you more but the story now goes, “What happens at the Yountville Crab Feed STAYS at the Yountville Crab Feed”. Just this once… I will break the rules with a few pictures (our secret)…

OHhh… You thought it was going to be incriminating?! (Chuckles)

After such a wonderful evening some of us desperately need sustenance in our bellies for obvious reasons. My biggest craving is a cup of Joe and some piping hot donuts* from the Boon Fly Café located at the Carneros Inn.

When I was younger it was all about the Krispy Kreme Original Glazed donuts. They would turn on the “HOT NOW” red sign which meant that at that very moment fresh original glazed donuts were coming off the belt glistening from a recent bath in that sugary glaze….

In California, there were trucks which would go around to each neighborhood offering fresh baked treats from the back of their vans such as bread, muffins, cookies and donuts. I hear the Helms Bakery Truck in Southern California would charge a nickel per original glazed!…”Three Times Around the World Everyday”…

The only place to go for donuts near Napa is Boon Fly Cafe…These delectable treats are a must for any table. A perfect softness and lightness, these little donuts are smaller and more elegant in size(makes it okay to eat more) with a good dusting of cinnamon sugar. This is a much more adult like treat than what I gorged on in college… These perfect little treats can be ordered individually for a dollar each or as an little starter… 4 donuts and a cuppa joe for $6.75(some of my favorite coffee). If you have a large group or even a partner in crime just get the baker’s dozen for $9.75…

Joe DiMaggio wasn’t there… but in his honor…

Perfect breakfast the morning after all that beautiful wine and dungeness crab… Ready to Start the DAY! Make it a great one!

*(National Doughnut Day is the first Friday in June…throwing it out there)