Red meat calls for red wine!
It feels like just a month ago it was “where to get the best burrata” and “who wants more tomatoes”, “what do you put on your beer can chicken”… Now, we are hearing of one’s detailed expert techniques for smoking sea salts and the benefit of blending the hickory and applewood chips for the best results, some are mastering the art of brioche popovers, others have baked the first apple tart of the season…
We have also switched to the topic of beef. Beouf bourguinon, steak au poivre, grilled ribeye with roasted root vegetables; bacon wrapped whole tenderloins and more…
With all of these mouthwatering, stomach grumbling conversations occurring we are also transitioning vintages on our two Cabernet Sauvignons.Our 2007 hope & grace St. Helena Cabernet off the Lewelling Vineyard was the shining star. The fresh black cherry, tobacco, anise notes danced with a lively mineral note and surprising acidity on the palette as it finished with hints of cola and tea leaf. It was a fabulous vintage for all of Napa Valley and our winemaker’s talents were showcased. The hope & grace 2008 St. Helena Cabernet from the same vineyard is much more robust and structured and has so much to offer that we are enjoying the evolution of this young and powerful wine day by day…
The hope & grace 2007 Stag’s Leap Cabernet is quintessential Napa. I remember the first bottle of Stag’s Leap wine I ever had (potentially one of Charles’ clients) a very long time ago. I remember the depth, the dark fruit berries, the cocoa, the dustiness and intensity, the weight on my palette and yet the elegance… I remember swallowing that sip and then changing my career. I still feel that way about the Stags Leap District and its wines… The hope & grace 2007 Regusci Ranch Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon always took me right back to that moment in my life. The 2008 Regusci Ranch Stags Leap District Cabernet is another amazing vintage. It is a burst of dark fruits, berries, cassis, violets and rich coffee and no matter what time of day a Bouchon coffee run seems to follow…
And this brings us back to beef… Beef Wellington, a perfectly executed chateaubriand (fried in butter with a Béarnaise sauce), bacon wrapped filet, the rib eye cap pan-seared with oil and finished with its own little spoon bath of butter, garlic and thyme….with all of this, the Steak au Poivre seems to be the favorite right now. The recipe is inspired from an old Gourmet cookbook that we have at the shop….
• Steak au Poivre •
(Serves Four)
Preparation Time: 30 Minutes – Total Time 1 ½ hours.
1.5 tablespoons black peppercorns (3 was too much for us but you could go bold or play with 3 tablespoons green peppercorns)
4 (¾ – inch thick) boneless top loin steaks (about 8 ounces each)
Salt to season the steaks
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium to large shallot finely chopped
¼ Cup Cognac
2/3 Cup of heavy cream
Salt to season
Garnish
Flat leaf Parsley, chopped
Fresh Watercress
Coarsely crush peppercorns in a sealed plastic bag or between two sheets of wax paper with the bottom of a heavy skillet.
Pat steaks dry. Press pepper onto both sides of steaks and the let stand at room temperature, loosely covered with wax paper, for one hour.
Preheat oven to 200*F.
Season steak with salt. Heat oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a 10-11 inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until the foam subsides. Add steaks in two batches and cook, turning once, until meat is just springy to the touch, 4 to 5 minutes per batch for medium rare. With a slotted spatula, transfer steaks to a baking sheet with sides and keep warm in the oven.
Pour off the fat in the skillet (We started with a new pan because of the bits in the bottom and the color was brighter with the end product, see pic) then add shallots and remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until shallots are softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add cognac, bring to boil, and boil until reduced to glaze, about 2 minutes. Add cream and any meat juices accumulated on the baking sheet, bring to a boil, and boil, stirring occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened and reduced to about ¾ cup, about 3 minutes. Season with salt.
Serve steaks with sauce, garnish with watercress, if desired.
I love classic whipped potatoes with a steak like this and embrace just a few variations. I infuse the cream (or milk if you are watching your waistline) with thyme and garlic. Sometimes a little rosemary will add the right element if it is cold outside. Another easy preparation of potatoes with this classic beef dish is to slice some peeled potatoes very thin on a mandolin and toss them with fresh olive oil and whatever fresh herbs may be lurking around your garden. Preheat your oven to 425 with the sheet pan in the oven for a few minutes to get it nice and hot. Pull out the hot sheet pan and drop the sliced, seasoned and herb potatoes on there and let them cook until crispy and brown.
For a quick salad, take advantage of the peppery bite of arugula with shaved fennel and Dijon-honey vinaigrette. I start with a bowl I will be using for the salad with 1tbsp Dijon Mustard in the bottom. Add 1tbsp wild honey, any extra finely chopped shallots you may have and the juice of half a lemon. Whisk together the ingredients and start to drizzle slowly the oil in to make sure that you allow the vinaigrette to bond and thicken. (I use olive oil and sometimes a little lighter vegetable oil depending on what is closest to my left hand). Throw in your arugula, shave the fennel bulb on the top and season. Toss and enjoy….
Don’t forget your bottle of hope & grace Cabernet!